Estes Launch Pad

Home Built Launch Pad

I got the idea for this launch pad from the web. I had seen pictures of a homebuilt launch pad using plastic PVC pipe for around $20. So I decided I wanted to build a bigger launch pad that my current Estes Porta-Pads. This bigger launch pad doesn’t cost very much to make and it allows launching of larger rockets (up to 3-5 lbs). I built the launch pad with a 5/16 steel coupler. This allows up to a 5/16 launch rod with a slight modification. It works very well with 1/8 to ¼ rods. I wanted to use a 3/8-inch turnbuckle, but all the new ones are not totally enclosed anymore. So I had to use a steel coupler. I used ¾ inch plastic PVC pipe couplers for my launch pad. I didn’t want to use the 1 inch due to it is slightly thinner compared to the ¾ inch. I have put in a couple of sprinkler systems, so I had most of this stuff lying around. Here is a parts list of everything you should need to build this. It does not include the tools needed or the launch rods. The parts list consists of:

Description Qty Approximate Cost

1’x 6” x 1/16” steel plate                     1                      $8.00 ea
¾ inch PVC pipe 8 foot                       1                      $2.00 ea
¾ inch PVC 4 way                               1                      $1.00 ea
Small can of PVC cement                    1                      $2.00 ea
Small can of PVC primer (optional)   1                      $2.00 ea
Spray paint (optional)                          1                      $1.50 ea
5/16 steel coupler                                  1                          .75 cents ea
¾ inch PVC 45 deg elbow                    4                          .40 cents ea
10-32 x 1 inch thumbscrews                 2                          .25 cents ea
5/16 x 2.5 inch bolt                               1                          .15 cents ea
5/15 inch nut                                         2                          .05 cents ea
5/16 washers                                        5                          .05 cents ea

Total: $19.85 not including tax as of summer 2000

Please read all of these steps first before doing this project.

These items were purchased at Home Depot, but can be picked up at any good hardware store. The tool’s that are needed are a hacksaw to cut the PVC pipe and steel plate. You will need a file or bench grinder to round the edges of the steel plate. Two-½ inch wench’s to tighten the nuts and bolt. A 10-32NT (National Thread) tap and a T-handle with a #21 drill bit and drill to make the holes and treads for the coupler. A center punch is used to mark the holes on the coupler. A 5/16 drill bit to drill the hole through the PVC 4-way. A vice should also be used to hold parts when drilling or filing. Also I recommend safety glasses when sawing, grinding, drilling or filing for eye protection. I’ve worked in the automotive dealerships for 18 years where I’ve seen metal shaving's go into people’s eyes that doctor's can't get out. Please follow this safety tip. Your eyes are NOT replaceable.

The first step is to Drill the hole through the center of the PVC 4-way. I used a smaller 1/8 bit to drill a pilot hole to keep it in the center. Then I used the 5/16-drill bit to make the hole bigger. Take your time so you keep the hole round. If you push to hard and go fast, you can get an oval shaped hole that may not make the launch rod mount stable. Check to make sure your bolt fits the hole snugly.

The next step is to cut four 2-inch sections from the ¾ inch PVC pipe. These will be used to joint the 45 deg. Elbows to the 4-way. You can use your hacksaw to cut the PVC pipe pretty quick. Clean off the ends buy rubbing your fingers along the edge that you cut, knocking off the plastic remains. You can also use a file to remove this flashing also.

Then cut four pieces of pipe 2 feet 2 inches from the left over PVC pipe. These will be the legs the launch pad. Clean the flashing from the legs and set them aside.

The step is to test fit the pieces together before they are glued. If all the pieces fit together, then its time to prepare to glue then into place. Note: I did not glue my legs to the 4-way. This allows the stand to be compact during transportation. When working with PVC, the glue actually melts the surface of the PVC pipe and welds it to fitting it is placed into. This is an instant bond. So when gluing the pieces you have about 3 seconds to get the pieces together and on the way you want them. First apply some purple primer to the outside edge of the 2-inch PVC pipe you cut up about an inch. This primer will soften the PVC for a better bond. Next apply a small amount to the same area as the purple primer. Then push this piece into one of the elbows as far as it will go. Do this to the other three elbows and 2-inch PVC pipe pieces. Now we are going to put the four Elbows into the 4-way. Follow the same process of apply primer and glue to other ends and put them into the 4-way. Make sure when you put them into the 4-way that they all point down in the same direction.

The next step is to install the bolt, washers and one of the 5/16 nuts. Place a washer on the bolt. Then slide the bolt through the bottom of the 4-way. Next place 3-4 more washers and one of the 5/16 nuts. Do not over tighten this nut. You can crack or break the 4-way with too much pressure. Just make sure it is not loose. Next, place the last 5/16 nut on the bolt. Do not tighten. This will be used later.

The next two steps require a special tools and some practice if you have not used them before. Maybe a friend with the right tools and experience can help. We are going to cut out the steel plate. I think some hardware stores can help with this. I used a compass to draw a 6-inch circle on the steel plate. Next I used a die grinder with a thin cutting blade to cut the circle out. A hacksaw can be used in place of the die grinder, but it’s a lot more work. Once the circle is cut out, you need to clean up the edges with a file or bench grinder. Touch up the ends so there are no sharp corners or metal slivers to find their way into your hands or fingers. This process is also used to make you circle more round from the cutting process. Then I measured about 1.5 inches from one side and drilled a 1/8-inch pilot hole. Then I finished the hole using the 5/16-drill bit. Set the plate aside for now.

Next we are going to drill and tap the holes for the coupler. Place the coupler in a vice. Next using a center punch and ruler, measure from the top 1/4-inch and mark it with center with the punch. Measuring from the top again, mark the center about ¾-inch down. Using the #21 drill bit, drill two holes on the center punch marks. These marks help start the drill bit in the center and keep it there. It helps to use a very light oil on the drill bit to keep it from burning up. It also helps cut the metal better. Next use the tap to cut the new treads into the holes you just drilled. There should be about ¼-inch left from the bottom hole to the bottom of the coupler nut. The last threads will be used to attach the coupler to the bolt. Clean out the coupler to get rid of all the metal shavings from drilling and tapping the coupler. Install the two thumbscrews into the new holes.

Now take the leg assembly (4-way) and place the launch plate through the hole onto the bolt. Screw the coupler onto the end of the bolt to about a ¼ inch. Be careful not to screw it on to far, or you will tighten it against the lower thumbscrew. Position the thumbscrews so that they point away from the center of the steel pad. Then tighten the nut under the steel plate the hold the plate tight.

Now just put he legs into the elbows and insert you launch rod and you have a stable launch pad. I use a 3/16 steel launch rod. If you want to use a bigger rod, use a 3/8-bolt assembly in place of the 5/16-bolt. The one bad thing about this pad is that it is not adjustable. I’m working on an adjustable version and I am open to any suggestions.

Modifications for a tilting base model rocket launcher.

I have since modified my homebuilt launcher to tilt for windy days. I came up with the idea while traveling to my mother-in-laws for Christmas. It is a long drive through the rocky mountains and I had a lot of time.

I replaced all the 5/16 nuts and bolts with 3/8 gear. I was also able to find 3/8 coupler for bigger launch rods. I also added two eye bolts to replace the 2.5 inch 5/16 through bolt. Then I installed a 1/2 x 1.5 inch bolt with two 1/2 inch washers, one 1/2 inch lock washer and 1 1/2inch wing nut. Make sure the lock washer is between the eye bolts. I also had to cut off the left handed threaded side of the coupler and re-drill and tap the two thumb screws. This modification has not been tested yet but seems to be very stable. It allows up to a 3/8 launch rod.